Rim Depth Preference

[ReapThaWhirlwind]

I have only ridden on 30mm depth recently, but I wouldn't really consider those true deep rims.

Does anyone here ride deep rims? What do you recommend for someone like me whose into very intense, long duration sprinting?

I am looking for maximum speed drive power. Where would you guys say the feel of true performance begins?

Those really deep 60~80mm wheels look so cool, but can anyone say you can really feel the difference, because you should be able to.

[Flowrider]

Be great to get some in-depth info on the advantages and disadvantages of different rim depths.

[SPINMAN]

On My old Litespeed L1R I had Reynolds 56 Aero (60s) if you look fast, you go fast! 😁
Any cross wind above 10mph though, I really had to think about holding on. No taking a drink with no hands. I would consider moving up to 40-60 gain if I found a good deal. Good sales on rim brake models now.

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The Trade-Off
Deep Rims (e.g., 60mm+): Best for flat, fast, calm conditions where aerodynamic gain outweighs handling concerns; common in time trials and triathlons.

Shallow Rims (e.g., <40mm): Ideal for windy days, hilly courses, or riders prioritizing control and comfort; offer great all-around performance.

Mid-Depth Rims (e.g., 40-60mm): A popular compromise, offering a good blend of aero benefits and manageable handling for varied road racing.

Mixed Setups: A common setup uses a shallower front wheel (for steering control) and a deeper rear wheel (for maximum aero benefit).

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This is interesting, they call it the "sailing effect"
This makes me want to go back to 60s front and rear. Maybe 60f 80r?

This if at a 20 mph cross wind riding at 20mph

The Sailing Effect At high yaw angles deeper rims act like a wing. Rims 60mm and deeper can actually produce "negative drag," where the wind's lateral pressure helps push the bike forward.

Steering Torque: The benefit of speed comes at a cost of control. An 80mm rim has nearly triple the surface area of a 30mm rim. In a 20 mph crosswind, a deep front wheel will experience sudden "tugs" or twitches as the wind stalls and reattaches to the rim surface.

Handling Strategy: Most riders in these conditions prefer a staggered setup (e.g., 50mm front / 80mm rear) to gain the aero benefits of the deep rear wheel while maintaining steering control with a shallower front.

[ReapThaWhirlwind]

That's excellent feedback.

The area I cycle is kind of a war zone. The roads aren't the best. Narrow tires suffer, and I would worry about deep rims traditionally considering wind and traffic. In all my years so far, I would have to say the lateral wind influence is very rare. It happens once in a blue moon. However, once is all it takes for a disaster. The area is very hilly, uphill basically the whole stretch. You don't really see it much on every road, but you feel it across the distance. The deeper rims do handle the rough roads better in my opinion, which is good, and very important if you want to run narrower tires. I was currently riding 26c and 32c rear, and will probably continue this Attack/Force setup using 26c/28c next season.

I am very intrigued to try out 60mm deep wheels now.

[rydabent]

These days most bikes come with disc brakes. Therefore most rims are lighter, lacking the braking surface. They are somewhat triangulated and as a result stronger making them more aero. Additionally lighter rims accelerate faster.

[SPINMAN]

Yes, but keep in mind the research I've seen, and input, centers around speeds of 18-20 mph (29-32 kph) and trips of 35-60 miles (55-100km) mostly flat undulating open roads.

If your climbing the Dolomites, they don't help being heavier. If your average speed is 12-15mph, maybe not helpful either, and same for short trips under 20 miles.

30m seems to be a good all around general riding depth for the casual non-competitive rider.

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(01-17-2026, 01:00 PM)ReapThaWhirlwind Wrote:  That's excellent feedback.

The area I cycle is kind of a war zone. The roads aren't the best. Narrow tires suffer, and I would worry about deep rims traditionally considering wind and traffic. In all my years so far, I would have to say the lateral wind influence is very rare. It happens once in a blue moon. However, once is all it takes for a disaster. The area is very hilly, uphill basically the whole stretch. You don't really see it much on every road, but you feel it across the distance. The deeper rims do handle the rough roads better in my opinion, which is good, and very important if you want to run narrower tires. I was currently riding 26c and 32c rear, and will probably continue this Attack/Force setup using 26c/28c next season.

I am very intrigued to try out 60mm deep wheels now.

Shallow Rims (30-40mm): Ideal for windy days, hilly courses, or riders prioritizing control and comfort; offer great all-around performance.

[meamoantonio]

go for 60mm so you can still have some lightness for the climbs, also be very prepared for crosswinds its a very jarring experiences the first time it happens haha good luck and happy shopping!

[SPINMAN]

I've definitely been shaken around in the wind on 60s.

The Trade-Off
Deep Rims 60mm+): Best for flat, fast, calm conditions where aerodynamic gain outweighs handling concerns; common in time trials and triathlons.

Shallow Rims 30-40mm): Ideal for windy days, hilly courses, or riders prioritizing control and comfort; offer great all-around performance.

Mid-Depth Rims 40-60mm): A popular compromise, offering a good blend of aero benefits and manageable handling for varied road racing.

Full rim rear disk? TTs, velodrome

[Jesper]

Deleted

[Jesper]

First off; what the heck is "intense, long duration sprinting"? And second; are you competing?
That is a relative statement that provides zero information. One would already assume intense since that is what sprinting is; going all out and leaving nothing in the tank. If just interval "sprinting" (not sprinting) that is much slower (though faster than normal speed) if done correctly (unless you are stopping to recover each time which is not doing intervals at all; i.e stop & go sprinting between traffic lights/stop signs). So that leaves us with the vague "long duration". To runners "long" (if in regards to distance) might be anywhere from 25m to a mile given the perspective of the overall length of the training or race. "Duration" indicates a time period so some idea of what that actually is, be it 10 seconds or 10 minutes, would be helpful to know.

Essentially rim depth will make no noticeable difference for sprinting since it is such a small % of the total ride distance so do not be concerned at all about your rims in that regards; especially for non-competitors for which it is primarily for personal taste in aesthetics pr boasting, and has no real application in performance. Your physical condition and technique is what you mostly need to be concerned about. Having a very stiff frame for more efficient energy transfer is way more important than a meaningless rim depth in regards to sprinting on a bike

Also, if you tire width does not properly "match" the rim width you are creating turbulence that has a negative affect. With wider tires you technically need a properly matching wider rim regardless of depth if you want any aero advantage which again only really applies to high level competition where average speeds over a long distance actually provide any measureable gains (average speeds of 25mph or higher over +20 mile or so distances). Remember; all high end parts (components and frames) regardinging aerodynamic efficiency are tested and rated for high level competition not for general cycling. If you cannot perform at that level then the only gain you get is the reduced weight in your wallet. You are merely being sucked in by hype by manufacturers who want your money knowing full well that you will get nothing more than a warm and fuzzy feeling owning competition equipment and the only gain is a potential placebo effect. If manufacturers told you shallow rims were faster the sheep will follow their shepherd's call. All it takes is a couple words and the gullible will follow without actually doing research into the truth of the matter. Manufacturers of competition equipment are not designing and testing their products based on the amateur and weekend warrior cycling community. They are however tailoring their marketing to those who think they need what high level competitors use, and are essentially saying if it works for them it will work for you also, all the while neglecting to state that you need to be at the same level as those who can actually reap the benefits.

Sorry, but I just have to laugh at people worrying about aerodynamics when their riding position will provide way more gain at much lower speeds than having any $20000 TT bike will provide. Other laughable things are clothing and accessories. If you wear any type of loose clothing you have more than just slightly negated all aero gains that may have been had by purchasing any aero designs incorporated into the bike. Accessories also do the same, not even including the added weight. The only real "performance" accessory needed for general riding is a water bottle or 2. And let me ask this: how many of you use a frame conforming bottle over a standard "wide body" bottle? If you use a wide bottle then just scrap all the other high dollar aero stuff because your bottle just negated the gains from the hundreds to thousands of dollars you spent on the competition level gear. (Note: you can flatten and shape most bottles and cages (not CF ones) by heating and reforming).

I'll say again to everyone not competing: STOP WASTING YOUR MONEY AND GET REAL! My best gain comes from riding a lo-pro. Why? Because it automatically puts my body in a more aerodynamic posotion even if riding the top of the bar. I cannot even figure out why riders are so worried about aero gains if they do not have and actually use an aero bar set up (extended aerobar, bullhorn, or drops). Even then I see loads of riders with aero cockpit set ups that never even use them; or if they do the percentage of usage is too minimal to matter much.

You do not need disc brakes if you actually know how to brake. Why can I go over 50mph and safely brake with rim brakes? Modulation be damned; learn how to brake with crappy rim brales and move up to quality rim brakes (lighter in weight, less expensive, and less of a PIA). Unfortunately, the market has sucled in the frame manufacturers into making framescfor disc brakes when riders do not even need then.

Another waste of money for a majority of non-competitive riders are clip-in (toe cage and strap) and clipless pedals. How many of you have those set ups but never or rarely use the ability to pull up during your pedal stroke to thus improve your speed and more consistent application of strength and energy over the entire stroke? They are designed for making your pedal stroke smoother instead of the amateur kiddie style of just pushing down resuting in less speed and efficiency. Folks, you have muscles for that part of the pedal stroke not just the pushing down part. Use them, or forget getting those types of pedals and save on shoes and pedals alike. If you really want to fly up a hill or slice through the wind you need to be pulling up and pushing down at the same time.

If you want get faster just ride more, rider longer distances with harder climbs, wear tighter clothing, and ride in a more aerodynamic position. All of those particulars are free, except clothing (still comparatively less expensive than any component unless going overboard with fashion style or trying match competitive level kits). Even a TT helmet provides more gains than most other bike stuff, but I do not see everyone rushing out to buy them; then again, they are designed to be used while riding in a very aerodynamic position or gains will not be achieved.

Oh, and by the way, just drink adequate amounts of WATER & eat healthy balanced meals properly adjusted for your level of activity, and get proper sleep. Save money by not having to buy foolish "energy" crap that was never needed in the first place. You are all being brainwashed by advertising and marketing. Plus, proper eating will in most cases result in a reduction of girth and weight resulting in a more aerodynamic body and also providing gross weight reduction gains.

So my advice after you have had good meals and proper sleep is it to get out and ride in a more aerodynamic positon (not necessarily TT style), ride low or forward on your handlebar almost 100% if possible, swap to an "aero-bottle", remove all the unnecessary BS from your bike (except safety gear), pedal using an entire stroke (if equipped with applicable pedals), and/or wear tighter fitting clothing and I GUARANTEE that you will be faster although to start you will not feel as good after a ride since your body is not, or cannot do it all at the very start and muscles that you are not normally using full time will need to build up and strengthen. Your body will acclimate (provided no injuries, age, and/or anatomy limiting you), gain strength and gain muscle memory if you keep it up. Who knows, some of you might reach a level where adding the competition stuff will actually help you out instead of it being just a psychological effect and a money burning waste. Just stop reading all the hype and marketing. If only people realized that the amount of time they spend online at home and/or staring at their phone trying to wade through the quagmire of BS instead of utilizing that time to cycle or exercise and get proper sleep they would realize gains they never expected; and guess what, all without any freaking specific rim depth (just to bring it full circle)!

Why is everyone concerned about things not ever meant for them? Yes, a lighter weight bike can make you faster due to the weight diffetential; but that does not make you stronger. If you add weight to your bike or ride a heavier bike in training you will gain strength running the same routine as you would with the lighter weight bike. I would tell you how to do that, but you'd probably prefer to listen to marketing BS about aerodynamics and energy gels.

Just look at what @GirishH does with basic gear. He does more in one day than what most non-competive cyclists with the best gear do in a lifetime.


PS. Don't call me; I'm out cycling on a 55 year old bike with clip-in pedals, rim brakes; amd without a phone, GPS, energy crap, or a carbon fiber aero bike. Ciao!

[JJMarsh]

(01-10-2026, 11:00 AM)ReapThaWhirlwind Wrote:  I have only ridden on 30mm depth recently, but I wouldn't really consider those true deep rims.

Does anyone here ride deep rims? What do you recommend for someone like me whose into very intense, long duration sprinting?

I am looking for maximum speed drive power. Where would you guys say the feel of true performance begins?

Those really deep 60~80mm wheels look so cool, but can anyone say you can really feel the difference, because you should be able to.

For maximum speed on long intense rides, deep rims around 50mm to 80mm make a real difference. You will feel the aero advantage, especially at higher speeds. Start with 50mm or 60mm for a good balance of speed and stability in wind. The performance jump is clear once you go past 40mm.

[Jesper]

(01-26-2026, 04:09 AM)JJMarsh Wrote:  

(01-10-2026, 11:00 AM)ReapThaWhirlwind Wrote:  I have only ridden on 30mm depth recently, but I wouldn't really consider those true deep rims.

Does anyone here ride deep rims? What do you recommend for someone like me whose into very intense, long duration sprinting?

I am looking for maximum speed drive power. Where would you guys say the feel of true performance begins?

Those really deep 60~80mm wheels look so cool, but can anyone say you can really feel the difference, because you should be able to.

For maximum speed on long intense rides, deep rims around 50mm to 80mm make a real difference. You will feel the aero advantage, especially at higher speeds. Start with 50mm or 60mm for a good balance of speed and stability in wind. The performance jump is clear once you go past 40mm.

Long rides are one thing, but the OP specifically states sprints (without providing any clarification).

I fully agree on an actual ride of considerable distance that there is a difference because it is accumulative over hours and miles of riding, but even then the higher the speed the better the gain as I do not think there is much benefit in using them where the relative wind speed (cycling speed plus or minus the wind speed) is under 20mph. If you average 20mph plus any head wind the benefits are noticeable; but I do not see to many riders on the road or trails averaging much over 15mph (I pass 95% of the trail riders when I average 18-20 mph); myself included if there are some big hills (+500ft elev.) which Florida has screwed me on due to the flat terrain.
It still works out that unless you are an above average speed rider that you are best to save your money and use a good all-around rim instead deep rims unless you just have to have them for whatever reason. If you are even asking yourself if they are needed there is a very good chance that they are not; and certainly not in regards to sprinting which is such a short distance affair that the gain is negligible. Fast riders get something for their money, whereas everyone else gets nothing except bragging rights for putting aero stuff on a slow moving object.

Bladed spokes fall into that category also. You'll get gains at higher speeds over longer distances, but at lower speeds and/or short distances the gains become negligible. And if you are going with deep rims you should pretty much combine them with "aero" spokes for the greatest advantage. (and get rid of that fat water bottle too!).

If the OP only let us know what a sprint distance is we could give a better answer; but again, sprinting technique and a stiff frame are where those gains will ne the highest regardless of rim depth.

As always, a form-fitting kit and an aerodynamic riding position will blow away any gains achieved by aero components at pretty much any speed.

[GirishH]

Hello all, I was reflecting on this over the past couple of days after riding from the hills of South India down to the coast and back the next day. Not that I understand anything about the Rim depth or how that should matter when I ride..

One day alone had 5,000+ feet of elevation gain over 60 miles. And, over the two-day I rode 120-miles, and I climbed roughly 7,600 feet.

What was I riding? A borrowed clunker—my nephew’s MTB. No idea about gear ratios. The bike wasn’t fitted or height-adjusted, definitely not meant for long distances. I didn’t have my tools, so I couldn’t fully adjust the brakes, which were rubbing and making the climb harder. To top it off, I was carrying a ~5 kg backpack because none of my bikepacking gear was available.

Did I worry about not having the “right” bike or “right” gear? I did. Then I thought—let me just give it a try.
Once I reached my destination and rode back, it hit me: all I really need are two wheels that move. During my three years of bikepacking in South America and now Asia, I’ve seen fixed-gear cyclists riding massive distances, even climbing the Himalayas.

Compared to them, I have it easy—with a 10-speed bike and bags to carry my stuff. Many others have far less and still go far.

I do read posts about optimizing cycling and “improving” performance, but at the end of the day, I ride for the freedom, the joy, the health benefits, and the human connections—near or far.

So that’s all I’ll say: hang up the doubts and ride. Think about spoke length, wheel count, or gear ratios if you want—but in the end, it’s mostly in our heads. If you can imagine it, you’ll find a way to do it.

[Flowrider]

"...but at the end of the day, I ride for the freedom, the joy, the health benefits, and the human connections—near or far"

Way to go @GirishH !!

Attitude is a choice, and you have an awesome, inspirational attitude!

[GirishH]

My apologies, @ReapThaWhirlwind and @SPINMAN —I didn’t, and don’t, want to hurt the sentiments or the thought behind this thread..

   

During my rides, I’ve met cyclists using bikes I once thought were impossible for long distances, yet they were riding across the South America or climbing the foothills of the and then the Himalayas.

   

At the same time, I’ve been fortunate to meet avid, “pro” cyclists in Colombia Ecuador and now Nepal who constantly push the limits of what’s possible with “pro” machines.

   

At the end of the day, for me, this mural best describes what cycling means. Probably most in this forum ride for this reason too..

(01-29-2026, 10:47 PM)Flowrider Wrote:  "...but at the end of the day, I ride for the freedom, the joy, the health benefits, and the human connections—near or far"

Way to go @GirishH !!

Attitude is a choice, and you have an awesome, inspirational attitude!

[ReapThaWhirlwind]

That's excellent feedback. I appreciate it a lot.

It adds so much character to the thread and forum with your passion for cycling.

I can't really speak on how rim depth would be relevant to your style of cycling in any light. It's the kind of the thing that might only hold you back. However, deeper rims do give better power transfer, and that is something I've personally felt. They also absorb bumps better. But I still can't say they would be relevant to bike packing.

As for Jesper, how long do you usually sprint for? It's okay to use when you we're in your prime.

The factors I've talked about would be very relevant for me, because I will attempt to sprint for up to three miles or more at a time. During this type of action, the gains in power transfer, rigidness, acceleration, etc. all add up tremendously and count more than any penny ever has. Making a move like this is, as you've expressed the grief of, expensive. And I'd hate to undershoot a move like this, only to be so close, but still so far.

[SPINMAN]

(01-27-2026, 12:54 PM)GirishH Wrote:  Hello all, I was reflecting on this over the past couple of days after riding from the hills of South India down to the coast and back the next day. Not that I understand anything about the Rim depth or how that should matter when I ride..

One day alone had 5,000+ feet of elevation gain over 60 miles. And, over the two-day I rode 120-miles, and I climbed roughly 7,600 feet.

What was I riding? A borrowed clunker—my nephew’s MTB. No idea about gear ratios. The bike wasn’t fitted or height-adjusted, definitely not meant for long distances. I didn’t have my tools, so I couldn’t fully adjust the brakes, which were rubbing and making the climb harder. To top it off, I was carrying a ~5 kg backpack because none of my bikepacking gear was available.

Did I worry about not having the “right” bike or “right” gear? I did. Then I thought—let me just give it a try.
Once I reached my destination and rode back, it hit me: all I really need are two wheels that move. During my three years of bikepacking in South America and now Asia, I’ve seen fixed-gear cyclists riding massive distances, even climbing the Himalayas.

Compared to them, I have it easy—with a 10-speed bike and bags to carry my stuff. Many others have far less and still go far.

I do read posts about optimizing cycling and “improving” performance, but at the end of the day, I ride for the freedom, the joy, the health benefits, and the human connections—near or far.

So that’s all I’ll say: hang up the doubts and ride. Think about spoke length, wheel count, or gear ratios if you want—but in the end, it’s mostly in our heads. If you can imagine it, you’ll find a way to do it.

Reminds me of my childhood days in Italy. My family had no cars, just a three-wheeled covered 1 cylinder cart with an open bed for my uncle to go to work. I jumped on whatever bike was available to go to the bakery or the closest cow for milk. 3 speed, one pad brake, and the headlight that ran the power source by rolling along the tire. Climbing the lower bases of the Dolomites pedaling a simple life. Wish I was back. 😔🚲🙏

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(01-30-2026, 07:10 AM)GirishH Wrote:  My apologies, @ReapThaWhirlwind and @SPINMAN —I didn’t, and don’t, want to hurt the sentiments or the thought behind this thread..



During my rides, I’ve met cyclists using bikes I once thought were impossible for long distances, yet they were riding across the South America or climbing the foothills of the and then the Himalayas.



At the same time, I’ve been fortunate to meet avid, “pro” cyclists in Colombia Ecuador and now Nepal who constantly push the limits of what’s possible with “pro” machines.



At the end of the day, for me, this mural best describes what cycling means. Probably most in this forum ride for this reason too..

(01-29-2026, 10:47 PM)Flowrider Wrote:  "...but at the end of the day, I ride for the freedom, the joy, the health benefits, and the human connections—near or far"

Way to go @GirishH !!

Attitude is a choice, and you have an awesome, inspirational attitude!

[Jesper]

Sorry, but if the individual cannot get my actual name right then I doubt what I, or anyone who has competed at a serious level considers sprinting is anything near to being this individual's "intense 3 mile" sprint. Even the pro pursuit riders only do about 2.5 miles all out from a dead stop.

Seems we have another olympian on our hands as my all out "intense" sprints are only a 1/4 to 1/2 mile at most doing about 1.5 to 2 times my normal average speed. Of course I am actually sprinting; an "intense" out of the saddle effort. It is a far cry from my 15% to 25% increase I do for soft andchard intervals which can be a mile to 5 miles depending on terrain, ride length, and/or training goal.

Maybe I need those energy gels, pastes, powders, drinks, pills, suppositories, etc. that everyone discusses here in order to do "intense" 3 mile sprints (which of course deep section rims will not help me do; and are less comfortable due to being stiffer). If I only had that crap as an amateur racer I might have been a pro rider. Maybe I can make a comeback with a CF aero TT bike and disc wheels

[ReapThaWhirlwind]

Sorry about the name mishap. Honest mistake really. Mandela effect.

I did an all out 6.5 mile run once. My disc brakes were rubbing the entire time, plus 130ft elevation gain. 22 mins total.

Some people like myself get carried away. I have been trying to calm down from that.

I am intrigued about the gain, because this type of gain could serve someone like me very well at certain stages of my ride. Being able to get an edge on those elevated stretches helps to preserve wind after breaking through them. This is also something important for me so that I can break-away from traffic clusters at lights this way. But really, those elevated stretches kill, and everything that I've done so far to get an edge on them has been incredibly helpful.