Spoke Count Preference

[ReapThaWhirlwind]

Just wanted to ask what the spoke type and preference was for everyone?

I never really thought about 36h wheels before as an issue until I actually started started riding on lower counts. The extra aero drag is polarizing just to think about.

Currently, I ride 32h wheelset and 24h wheelset. Both are built on round spokes. I would love to try Aero spokes, but I don't want to put them on my 24h wheels, because I worry that I would be able to taco the entire wheel while sprinting hard all out. I weigh over 200lbs and don't hold anything back, so that's a big concern for me. I wasn't even supposed to be able to ride on 24h technically, but my wheelbuilding skills have done me justice with a good strong tension wheelset. They have plenty of strength for me and can handle anything I dish out. I guess I also have premium Ligiro dish rims, and that helps. Even so, I am only considering an Aero spoke build for 28h wheels, also with dish rims.

I am looking to unlock the perfect flow state on a budget. I don't have any super fancy wheels, although I could build them, that use radial lacing on the non-drive side and cross-lacing on the drive side. I'm not sure I would be into that really, since I put a lot of concern in my wheels being as strong and rigid as possible for all out sprinting.

I don't really mind 32h wheels still, but they seem to be becoming the new 36h for me.

What do you guys like riding? Do you have any die-hard preferences for peak performance?

[meamoantonio]

Oh this is a cool thread, im also above 200lbs and recently been re acquainted with q 24H wheelset from DtSwiss and t works like normal for me despite the weight, i think as long as the tension is good you woudnt have any problem and maybe add buy really good spokes like Pillar or Sapim

Hope this helps!

[Flowrider]

Great topic! Something I've never given thought to. Looking forward to reading what others come up with

[froze]

For bicycle touring/camping ideally you need at least 36 spokes in the rear, 40 would be idea if you like a much better safety margin but I don't think it's necessary. For the front you can get away with 32, but if a spoke were to break you stand somewhat of a chance of not being able to ride the bike due to the bend in the wheel; thus 36 would be ideal but 40 is not necessary.

All that spoke thing is dependent on how much weight you carry, if you are more of an ultralight camper and you weigh under 150 pounds, then you for sure won't need more than 36 on the rear. But if you are going to traveling off road then for sure put 40 on the rear and 36 up front.

I bought a touring that came with 32 spoke rims front and rear, after 3 years of use the rear rim was cracking at several different spoke holes causing the wheel to slightly wobble. I replaced it with a 36 and after 3 more years nothing has happened. I carry 60 pounds of gear and water, plus a 35-pound bike, plus I weight 178, and about 75% of that weight is on the rear, but I have no way to measure the exact percentage so I could be off by 5% either way. But that weight stressed out the rear wheel that simply was not built to tour on despite being sold as a touring bike.

At the same time, I replaced that wheel I also replaced the generic hub due to the spoke count of course, but I got a Shimano XT, not for strength, but it had better seals and bearings and it spun a lot better. The shop also used better spokes. Most bikes today come with crappy wheels, seats and pedals, most people that buy a touring bike may not ever even use it for that purpose, or use it one time then never again, so a 32 spoke wheel could last many years, but in my case I was using it a lot with the weight and the wheel failed. The front wheel so far has not had any cracks.

The rim I got for the rear was an Alex DC19 rim which is generally considered a good choice for touring due to its wider, stronger rim profile that can handle a variety of terrains, from pavement to gravel. It is designed for versatility, allowing riders to switch between different tire sizes and tread types for comfort and traction on rough surfaces. The rim's 18mm internal width provides better tire support and improved cornering stability, making it suitable for long-distance rides even though it's an economy rim it is highly rated for touring. That rim is slightly narrower than the original but since I only use 40c tires it's fine. That rim is a light duty touring rim, but when the original wheel went bad I was out of town and the shop I took it do that was all they had, but they said it would hold up, but I may move it to the front and buy a Ryde Andra 40 for the rear, I haven't decided yet.

[rydabent]

The weight of a few extra spokes, to assure a strong wheel is NOT going to slow anyone down that much. It probably would come out to 17.264587 feet in a metric century.

[Mr. Beanz]

I agree about the few more spokes not making a difference. BUT!!!! The builder is a big part of the longevity of the wheels. My story, I had these wheels as a stock set on another bike. 24/28 count but they would not stay true for more than a couple of 40 mile rides. Shop said that I was too heavy for them so they suggested that I buy wheels with lower soke count, 16 spokes. OK, what????!!!

I actually hung the wheels in a closet and gave my hand a try at building my own. Best thing I ever did!

First wheel lasted 20,000 and only retired as the brake surface wore out, still true! So built a couple more with 32 spokes and 30 mm deep rims (Velocity Deep V rims). Great sucess!

So I took these wheels out of the closet, 24/28 count that I had given up on after the shop trued them about 4 times. I started to think that the craftsmanship was more of an issue than the spoke count. I tore them totally apart and rebuilt them myself. Little details that made a difference in quality like placing the trailing spokes on the inside of the hub flange, drive side of the rear wheel for extra support as those spokes supposedly take most of the torque pressure, The hub flange wall helps support the flexing spoke. I mentioned it to a couple of high end bike shop wheel builders and they had no idea what I was talking about. Probably why the shop pros were building trash wheels that didn't last for me. 😆

I rebuilt those wheels and not a problem after 10,000 miles. The same ones they said were not strong enough to support my weight. I used them for a couple of years then ran into a cycling buddy in need so I gave then to him figuring I'd build more anyway. He put another 10,000 on them with no problems at 200 pounds. I'm 230 pounds.

So I used Deep V rims with 32 spokes on my future wheels. Doing 7300 miles max per year, I figured I wanted durability and maybe sacrifice a little speed. I soon learned the speed was all training.

Seriously, I was climbing 40,000 ft per month, 6 months training for a timed mountain event, 100 miles 10,000 ft gain. Pretty rare for a 230 pound Clydesdale to sigh up for a ride like this.

So this guy on a cycling forum, a well known cyclist with all sorts of credits to his name. 5 time finisher or Race Across America (on a team), out of country events, blah blah blah. He had an $8,000 back in 05. Special climbing wheels, special descending gears, super light this and that and I was riding a $1,000 Cannondale. Same one I ride today.

He talked a whole lot of trash on the forums saying that if I had a good day and he had a really bad day, I MIGHT keep up with him. He criticized my training habits, my diet, my bike, my wheels and whatever else he could think of. Even offered me a test ride on his bike so that I could feel the difference between out bikes, no thanks!

Anyway, event day came. I finished 123 out of 400 serious climbers. Ride descrip said if you weren't a serious climber, no need to register. I bear him by over an hour official posted time. 😆😄😆

He ate crow on the forums after that. But living near the mountains, Mt Baldy California, I had the perfect training ground. Figure I did that ride 5 times in a 10 year span, I did a lot of climbing, One time I caught a dude riding Mavic Ksyriums. He asked what wheels I used. 105 hub, Deep V, known to be heavy, He started in on why I should invest $1500 on light wheels like his. Just as he said that, and as I was passing him, his front wheel hub somehow unscrewed. Ha, don't think I'll be needing those,. I'm passing you on a 5,000 ft climb, 13 miles of a 21 mile mtn road.

Then a few of my cycling partners and buddies over the years, boasting about new wheels costing $2000. Great gains in speed blah blah blah blah but yet, still sucking my wheel like they were with their old sets. No thanks, I don't buy into the hype of low spoke count million dollar wheels for us mortals. Maybe if I were competing in the Tour de France, but we are not!

The wheels that were not strong enough according to the pro shop. I rebuilt to prove it's more about quality craftsmanship than spoke count.
   

Here is one of my wheels that I built on my Madone. Notice the trailing spokes on the inside flange. Mostly important on the drive side but I do both. The non drive side is pretty visible here but both are laced the same. Some will say that it doesn't matter but my wheels last over 20,000 miles and theirs don.t.

   

[rydabent]

Common sense and logic dictates that the greater the number of spokes, the stronger the wheel.