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Handlebars and brake compatability
#1
I have been riding an '85 Peugeot around for a while and really think it is time to change to some wider handlebars. I have one now that are maybe 40 cm ctc and would like to either upgrade to some wider ergo or some bullhorns. Now, I can go with simply wider bars and this won't be an issue. But if I go with the ergo bars and change the brake levers where the cable runs underneath the bars (or get the reverse pull type for bullhorns), would I need to change out the old center-pulls I have now for side-pulls? The back brake I am guessing would not be an issue, but with the hanger that works for center-pulls off the stem, I am wonder if this could work. Any help would be great.
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#2
I'd say brakes and brake levers are not compatible. You might be able to get other brakes, though. Depending on the mounting point you might be able to install mini v-brakes. If you have Mafac centerpull brakes, you have a problem. The mounting points are not compatible to anything.

Brakes:
http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
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#3
I think buzz has caliper brakes, not cantilever/v-brakes...yes?

You would need to change levers, to switch to running the cables under the tape. But you might be ok with the calipers. It depends how tight the curve would have to be for the cable to come out from under the tape and then go to the cable hanger. The cable won't move as you turn your bars (like the back one does) so you can go pretty tight on the curve. Especially if you have decent cables with an inner liner in the housing. If it's too tight and binds up, you might be able to find a cable hanger with a deeper drop to give it more room. Or go to a new caliper. But I'd try it unless it's obvious that it isn't going to work.
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#4
Why would the back brake not be an issue.
Is it different to the front?

Personally I would fit the levers and then see if there is a problem.
Some levers pull a longer or shorter amount of cable than others.
"V" brakes compared with "cantilever" usually require different levers. And some canti's differ to others.

The old center pull brakes where a bit dubious and fitting new dual pivot calipers will give an appreciable improvement.
Ride hard or ride home alone!
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#5
I think the OP is worried about how the cable will run when it comes out from under the bar tape and has to go to the cable hanger mounted on the stem/headset. It can get very tight in there depending on stem height and where the hanger mounts. Since the rear brake cable usually goes down to a braze on on the top tube, there's plenty of room for the cable to follow a healthy curve even with the hidden cable type levers. But I'll let him respond if there is another issue.

Modern dual pivot calipers are better, but you sometimes have reach issues on older bikes. They vary, but some of the older center pulls actually work pretty well, though they'd probably benefit from modern high-end pads.
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#6
(01-29-2010, 01:48 PM)DaveM Wrote:  I think the OP is worried about how the cable will run when it comes out from under the bar tape and has to go to the cable hanger mounted on the stem/headset. It can get very tight in there depending on stem height and where the hanger mounts. Since the rear brake cable usually goes down to a braze on on the top tube, there's plenty of room for the cable to follow a healthy curve even with the hidden cable type levers. But I'll let him respond if there is another issue.

Modern dual pivot calipers are better, but you sometimes have reach issues on older bikes. They vary, but some of the older center pulls actually work pretty well, though they'd probably benefit from modern high-end pads.

Your right Dave.
Sorry for my misunderstanding!
There would probably only be a very short length after exiting the bar tape. I would do a test with some old cable outer and temporarily taped in position.
The trouble with such a short length is there will be no play to alter bar height etc.
Ride hard or ride home alone!
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#7
Thanks for the feedback. They are not v-brakes or cantilevers as they do not have the posts on the forks or seat stays. They are the ones that connect like a side pull to the hole on the fork, but have an extra cable that runs between and pulls up to stop. This is not my bike, but the same setup: http://tinyurl.com/2ybklc I have had no problems stopping with these brakes and have the salmon colored Kool Stops.

I may play around with some housing and see how well it would run as it is now and I will ask around at the bike shops to see what they think.
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#8
Ah, sorry, I might have misunderstood you. I don't know about the compatibility of old vs. new road brakes. You might install newer road brakes then, but I'd probably try to stay with them for now. If it ain't broke, don' fix it.

Although the brakes in the pic are Mafac-style centre pull brakes, the predecessor of cantilever brakes (well, an early type of them). Those are probably not compatible to anything.
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#9
Hey Everybody,

Just wanted to let you know that I finally did give changing the bars (bullhorns) a try, and looks like I have success. I do need to get to the store to get a new cable for the back as the levers used the different stops to really give it a spin. But, as you can see from the picture, I was able to run the housing around the bar to get it to fit in the cable hanger. It does seem to have plenty of spring in the lever and should work.
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#10
Well, now the leverage of brake and lever has to be compatible... which I doubt for the reasons given above. If braking is weird or seems "off" you have to replace the brakes.
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