PAS Level 4 and 5

[leehop]

Let me preface this by saying that, in order to reach as many as possible, I am posting this in a few forums!

I know I’m not the only one here in several forums and, without failure, when I do post a question in several forums there’s always some yahoo complaining about it.

So, in advance, get over it, and tough toenails!

I have 7 gears and 5 PAS levels. PAS Level 1 - 16 mph, Level 2 - 19 mph, Level 3 - 22 mph, Level 4 - 25 mph, Level 5 - 28 mph.

I’ve used Levels 1 - 3. Level 1 I need to use Gear 6 to keep up, Levels 2 and 3 I need to use Gear 7.

Then comes the dilemma. I can’t keep up my pedaling in Gear 7 with PAS 4 and 5.

Any solutions or advice?

Thanks in advance.

[Jesper]

(03-14-2024, 04:03 PM)leehop Wrote:  Let me preface this by saying that, in order to reach as many as possible, I am posting this in a few forums!

I know I’m not the only one here in several forums and, without failure, when I do post a question in several forums there’s always some yahoo complaining about it.

So, in advance, get over it, and tough toenails!

I have 7 gears and 5 PAS levels. PAS Level 1 - 16 mph, Level 2 - 19 mph, Level 3 - 22 mph, Level 4 - 25 mph, Level 5 - 28 mph.

I’ve used Levels 1 - 3. Level 1 I need to use Gear 6 to keep up, Levels 2 and 3 I need to use Gear 7.

Then comes the dilemma. I can’t keep up my pedaling in Gear 7 with PAS 4 and 5.

Any solutions or advice?

Thanks in advance.

Which bike? What style drivetrain; e.g. internally geared hub, derailleur, etc.)? You may be able to modify the gearing. More teeth on the chainring would provide a change in the drive ratio and might help you depending on what sizes are available. You need to match the BCD (bolt circle diameter; can be more than one if any bolts are offset from others), and bolt pattern (3, 4, 5, etc.) of your existing crank spider. Changing gears at the front should be the least expensive regarding parts and labor.

No problem being on separate forums; I'm on 7 forums in 5 different countries. It allows the best learning in my opinion.

[meamoantonio]

(03-15-2024, 12:27 AM)Jesper Wrote:  

(03-14-2024, 04:03 PM)leehop Wrote:  Let me preface this by saying that, in order to reach as many as possible, I am posting this in a few forums!

I know I’m not the only one here in several forums and, without failure, when I do post a question in several forums there’s always some yahoo complaining about it.

So, in advance, get over it, and tough toenails!

I have 7 gears and 5 PAS levels. PAS Level 1 - 16 mph, Level 2 - 19 mph, Level 3 - 22 mph, Level 4 - 25 mph, Level 5 - 28 mph.

I’ve used Levels 1 - 3. Level 1 I need to use Gear 6 to keep up, Levels 2 and 3 I need to use Gear 7.

Then comes the dilemma. I can’t keep up my pedaling in Gear 7 with PAS 4 and 5.

Any solutions or advice?

Thanks in advance.

Which bike? What style drivetrain; e.g. internally geared hub, derailleur, etc.)? You may be able to modify the gearing. More teeth on the chainring would provide a change in the drive ratio and might help you depending on what sizes are available. You need to match the BCD (bolt circle diameter; can be more than one if any bolts are offset from others), and bolt pattern (3, 4, 5, etc.) of your existing crank spider. Changing gears at the front should be the least expensive regarding parts and labor.

No problem being on separate forums; I'm on 7 forums in 5 different countries. It allows the best learning in my opinion.

Does he mean Pedal Assist by PAS? I'm scratching my head too trying to understand by what he means

[Jesper]

(03-15-2024, 01:24 AM)meamoantonio Wrote:  Does he mean Pedal Assist by PAS? I'm scratching my head too trying to understand by what he means

I believe it is referring to pedal assist modes.

Note: forgot to mention that chainring might be riveted to the spider. I am too used to racing machines where everything is easily customized regarding gear ratios up front.

[ReapThaWhirlwind]

Maybe switch to clipless pedals?

I would definitely test the waters on that first in a safe place before taking it on the road though.

[Serena]

Whenever I'm riding and I come to a complete stop, I pick back up again, once I start pedaling my chain or gears start to make a cranking and loud popping sound, as if the chain is about to break. What is that? and what am I doing wrong? It should be a smooth flow motion, but I think it has something to do with me having it in 3rd or 4th gear, I'm not used to shifting back down to 1st great. and even when I do shift to 1st gear, the same popping noise still happens, although not as frequently.

Also when I do leave it on 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear, if I don't pedal right away, and I only use the throttle, everything seems to run well. No popping noise with the chain or anything.

[Jesper]

(07-22-2024, 11:54 AM)Serena Wrote:  Whenever I'm riding and I come to a complete stop, I pick back up again, once I start pedaling my chain or gears start to make a cranking and loud popping sound, as if the chain is about to break. What is that? and what am I doing wrong? It should be a smooth flow motion, but I think it has something to do with me having it in 3rd or 4th gear, I'm not used to shifting back down to 1st great. and even when I do shift to 1st gear, the same popping noise still happens, although not as frequently.

Also when I do leave it on 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear, if I don't pedal right away, and I only use the throttle, everything seems to run well. No popping noise with the chain or anything.

Is this an exposed gear system in the rear? It sounds like the chain is not properly engaging on the proper cog. I would assume, if a derailleur indexing shift system, that it needs to be adjusted some. How old is the bike, has it been regularly serviced (specifically chain cleaned & lubed), and did it do this when new (unless you bought it used)? A worn chain can behave oddly when shifting since links are not properly aligning with cog's teeth, that is different from the shifting being out of adjustment.
Internally geared hubs (IGH) can also make noises, but I am not familiar with new IGH systems to comment on that issue.

If the bike is still under warranty I would try to get the problem addressed by the manufacturer/dealer before attempting to correct it yourself or bringing it to a non-authorized shop. The manufacturer's site may have some basic troubleshooting suggestions relating to your problem. Also, check your owner's manual for same.