Hi everyone. A bit repetitive from my intro in GF, but this is the correct section for this post. I’m new to vintage bikes, but I’ve been eyeing a vintage Colnago to restore for a long time. Finally found one and the timing was right to pull the trigger. I’m still trying to identify the exact year, but from my research it’s 1991-1993 Colnago Super PiU. Mostly original, I think, apart from the headset, pedals, and seat I assume. Not sure about the top derailleur either. I did order a 1990s era Campagnolo headset and pedals as I embark on the restoration. I know nothing about restoring a bike other than the 100s of YouTube videos I’ve watched. Here goes nothing!
Oh, if you’ve got a better idea on the exact year of the bike, let me know! Also, does that top derailleur look like part of the original Campagnolo set? Is it the Chorus line? Thanks!
I'm not sure that it is a Super model. Did they change tubing for Supers in the 90s? 60s through late 80s had Columbus sl tubing.
The front derailleur is unknown to me. All the Campagnolo units I have seen have logo marked cages. It looks like a nice one aside from the cage damage (limit screw improperly set).
I believe they introduced Thron tubing in the 90s, but don’t know about the Super line. I just see that it says Super on the sticker, and matches some of the Super PiU pics I’ve been able to find online. Identification is still a work in progress I guess.
(09-19-2023, 03:57 PM)enkei Wrote: Brakes and rear derailleur look like Campagnolo Athena circa early-mid '90s. Front mech is Shimano 105 from same era.
Lovely frame! Nice tube set. Should be a lot of fun reviving that bike.
Thron is a mid-high range tube set made from Cyclex. As it was introduced in the mid-90s, I assume that lowers your frame's age slightly.
All true. The "super" on the tubing decal relates to the tubing itself and not the frame model. There are features that need to be shown in detail (bottom bracket, stay caps, etc.). "SL" was also "Cyclex" alloy, but "Thron" (introduced circa '94) was butted differently. It weighed more (per specs) than "SL" for a frame the same size which may be due to the stays; but I am unfamiliar with the Thron/Thron Super tube sets, and what their butting, fork blades/steerer, and stays, were spec'd as compared to "SL" sets. Another thing to consider is if the builder used a complete Thron Super tubeset (if indeed it was available; I would need to research it), or if those "C" model steel frames were a mix of Columbus sets, and/or Colnago proprietary pieces which was not uncommon back then, same as it is today for quality/custom frames depending on their designed use or rider demands.
(09-19-2023, 02:15 AM)Sybian Wrote: I'm not sure that it is a Super model. Did they change tubing for Supers in the 90s? 60s through late 80s had Columbus sl tubing.
The front derailleur is unknown to me. All the Campagnolo units I have seen have logo marked cages. It looks like a nice one aside from the cage damage (limit screw improperly set).
I agree on the FD not being a Campy part; but I don't know its make either.
Yes, after further research I have identified the rear derailleur, brakes, and crank as the Athena D100 / D010 groupset. I ordered the correct front derailleur to match, and I guess I’ll have to stick with the Chorus headset since I ordered it before correct identification, oops.
I’ll try to take more pics of the requested part for frame identification.
(09-20-2023, 12:15 PM)Colnago_zuub Wrote: Yes, after further research I have identified the rear derailleur, brakes, and crank as the Athena D100 / D010 groupset. I ordered the correct front derailleur to match, and I guess I’ll have to stick with the Chorus headset since I ordered it before correct identification, oops.
I’ll try to take more pics of the requested part for frame identification.
If the original groupset was Athena as sold then the bike is not a Super model. If sold as a frame to build up then it is still a possibility that it is a Super if frame features match; but I doubt it.
Mid 90s "C" (steel frame not CF) series was my initial assumption (per PM to OP); but photos did not detail the stay caps. Super model stay caps would have had "clubs" pantograph.
Thought I’d post some pics here of the journey to restore the bike. I’m watching YouTube videos and following along…hopefully I remember how to put it back together lol. I did order the correct front derailleur, as the one on the bike was not from the Athena D100 groupset.
Question, I have not removed the brake line from the top tube as I don’t know if I need to attach some type of guide to the existing ones to make the new one easier to thread through the frame tube, any suggestions?
Also, what type of degreaser do you like to use? I’m thinking of using the 3D Orange Degreaser. Then some metal polish on the brakes and derailleur.
cut your new housing to length, run your new brake cable in from the back, slip your new housing on the cable and carefully push the new in while pulling the old out
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
when the chrome goes like that, the only true fix is to send it out for re chrome if you want it nice. any loose chrome needs to be removed and any pitted steel need smoothed out also. Or polish what you can and live with it.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
(09-27-2023, 05:04 PM)Painkiller Wrote: when the chrome goes like that, the only true fix is to send it out for re chrome if you want it nice. any loose chrome needs to be removed and any pitted steel need smoothed out also. Or polish what you can and live with it.
What Painkiller said. If the aesthetics are okay regarding the fork and crown that will be seen then you can just try to preserve the bad areas from deteriorating further. I would certainly polish it up in those bad areas: remove loose/flaking chrome, use rust "stabilizer" as an option, super fine sandpaper or compound (I use crocus cloth), steel polish, fill pits with solder and re-polish until flush/smooth (us old guys know this as "leading" in bodywork), thin clear coat (you can use clear nail polish/top coat). That is time consuming, but also super low cost compared to a re-chrome. If you are going to get the frame painted then I would certainly opt for professional chrome work. If you like what you have and don't mind a little patina, but want to preserve what you have then just do it yourself. From what I can see the fork blades and crown are in decent shape so I would, at this time, save myself the cash and maybe use it on something that makes the bike more complete (what pedals are you using? Period correct or modern?) unless there is more rust than we can see.
Here is one of my riders that I rebuilt recently; was waiting on a cassette lock ring for rear wheel, but I got it and now this bike is destined to be my century rider come the end of October. It is a Super dated about '89/'90. Probably nearly identical to yours excepting some frame features and "SL" tubing instead of "Thron". I have a black Mutant bar to mate with the stem, and red Look pedals which happen to pass through the red paint areas of the DT and ST when orbiting the BB.
Before:
After some paint touch-up and chrome polish (needs another wax job)
Thanks everyone! I’m thinking about replating the forks and repainting the bike, going all in. This will be my personal bike so definitely won’t see the return, but it’s more for the love of the bike.
Regarding pedals and parts, pics attached. I was able to find everything I wanted for the Athena D100 groupset.
Are the rusted parts in the photos also chrome plated? Is it steel? Thanks.
(09-28-2023, 12:29 AM)Jesper Wrote: Here is one of my riders that I rebuilt recently; was waiting on a cassette lock ring for rear wheel, but I got it and now this bike is destined to be my century rider come the end of October. It is a Super dated about '89/'90. Probably nearly identical to yours excepting some frame features and "SL" tubing instead of "Thron". I have a black Mutant bar to mate with the stem, and red Look pedals which happen to pass through the red paint areas of the DT and ST when orbiting the BB.
Before:
After some paint touch-up and chrome polish (needs another wax job)
Love it! Really nice frame.
Almost forgot, the brakes.
(10-02-2023, 01:41 PM)Colnago_zuub Wrote: Thanks everyone! I’m thinking about replating the forks and repainting the bike, going all in. This will be my personal bike so definitely won’t see the return, but it’s more for the love of the bike.
Regarding pedals and parts, pics attached. I was able to find everything I wanted for the Athena D100 groupset.
Are the rusted parts in the photos also chrome plated? Is it steel? Thanks.
If rusted, then the parts are steel, some may be chrome plated and others not. On the components you are essentially looking at hardware items (screws, bolts, washers, springs, etc.) that will be steel (sometimes stainless steel, titanium, and/or aluminium parts are used; test with a magnet) and might be rusting whether chrome plated or not. Wire brush, steel or bronze wool should be able to clean up minor rust on small parts.
Regarding doing a full blown restoration on the paint and chrome; I would get some miles on it before I decide that is worth the extra money. If you find it rides perfectly and is definitely something you plan on keeping until death's door opens then I would certainly get the work completed. If you find that it is nice, but not quite what you want regarding its ride/handling/fit then I would hold off on the paint and chrome since as you said, you probably will not get the same return on cost output from selling (at least not for another 10 years or more due to the volume of those bikes made at the time and it being a lower tier model).
I just realized I forgot the pics of the rusted parts I was referring to (also the ones that seem to have a really thin chrome plating???). Here they are.
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