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Spoke tension
#1
I am trying to find out the correct spoke tension for my wheels. I contacted the manufacturers and they were unable (or unwilling) to help me.
front wiemann 26X1.5 32 spokes<br />
rear alex 26X20mm 32 spokes
spoke diameter = 2.0<br />
rim brakes
also do i need to dish rear on sprocket side, and if so, how much?
thanks in advance

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#2
It is highly unlikely to get too high spoke tension, in my opinion, at least with modern spokes and rims. In the "olden" times, you could easily potato-chip the wheel with a too high tension or strip the threads from the nipple. One approach is to judge the tension by ear http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm . The rim manufacturer can give maximum tensions, but this is only important on lightweight rims (which you do not have). The tension should be quite high, though there is a (in my opinion) wide margin of spoke tension that makes for a strong enough wheel (if you're not dealing with exotic stuff). When the spokes start building up a lot of torsion when tensioning the wheel, you are done (but remove the torsion from the spokes!). Hint: you should lightly lube the spoke threads with some oil. No, this does not weaken the wheel, it only reduces friction in the thread and makes it possible to bring the spokes to the final tension without twisting them too much. Remark: there are cases in which you have to use an adhesive, though, due to manufacturer specs.
The rear wheel has to be dished as much as it needs to be. Sorry, I cannot be more specific, if you want a number. The rim has to sit centered between the lock nuts of the hub. There are dishing gauges available, e.g. by Park, I built mine out of scrap wood.
I can definitely recommend the site http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/ , the available 'book' is quite nice (and inexpensive). I learned wheel building from it (+this site +sheldonbrown.com).

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#3
The recommended range is pretty big depending on the strength of the parts. It also depends on the combination of parts which is why you're having a tough time getting a firm number. Usually the rim (specifically the hole where the nipple sits) is the weakest part so that would determine max tension. Park recommends 80 Kfg - 130 Kfg. Heavy duty rims with eyelets can take the high side. Lightweight aero rims, probably the low side. The rim manufacturer should be able to give you some kind of recommendation of a range at least.
Next question is how you will measure the tension. If you have a gauge or can stop by a shop and have them throw one on the wheel after you've built it - great. Otherwise, maybe try to compare by feel to another well built wheel. But fingers are not very accurate tools to measure this. If it is getting very hard to turn the nipple on a nice new spoke, you've probably got the tension too high. But that is a VERY rough gauge.
Note that on the rear wheel, you only measure the tension on the drive side, the left side will always be looser. Per Joe_W, yes, the amount of dish is whatever it takes to get the rim centered over the locknuts (not the flanges which are off center on a multi speed wheel). Wheels for single speed typically have no dish.

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#4
i have a park spoke tension meter
a profession truing stand w/base
and a park tool wag4
thanks for the help

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