There is simply no way for us to give you advice without knowing what problems you want to fix on the bike. that photo does not tell us if you have a bad Bottom Bracket, a loose crank, or any other problems. Taking things apart and putting them back together is pointless if you don't do it properly, but how to do so is not best done on a forum thread. This site has videos to help, but also Google what you want to do and look especially at results from parktool.com and sheldonbrown.com. No idea if there's a BMX specific site that might help.
Least expensive solution: purchase a new bike for your brother. And the only one which will meet any September (or October) 2014 deadline.
Ist guess at what you need:
brake cable
chain - did you measure stretch?
rear cog
tool to remove rear cog
possibly crank set - did you use the proper tool to pull them off?
tools to remove bottom bracket
tools to install new bottom bracket (maybe the same, or might not)
tires
tubes
rim tape
wheel bearings, possibly new cones (cheapest to get axle assemblies).
cone wrench of the correct size
headset bearings
15mm wrench to remove pedals
pedal bearings (or new pedals).
water resistant grease (I use boat trailer wheel bearing grease).
Nigel
For me anyway, and your new perspective on the refurb. On 90% of the bikes I refurb and the prices I command. I do not worry about chain stretch. I replace all key drivetrain components. Just buy a new chain and freewheel, crankset @ your choice if worn badly. inspect and service all bearings, spindles, new grips, pads, cables/housing tubes/tires, peddles, where apply. Fluff and buff the rest!
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
(08-24-2014, 03:55 PM)nfmisso Wrote: (08-24-2014, 02:45 PM)Jalaska Wrote: ...... didnt measure chain stretch, what do you mean? ......
Chains stretch with use; bicycle chains with over 1/16" stretch over 12" should be replaced before they start wearing the cogs at the rear. Over 1/8" stretch over 12" means the cogs/freewheel/cassette at the rear needs to be replaced, and the chain ring at the front should be very closely inspected, and probably replaced.
yea I can agree with you for the most part, but I liken it to replacing two car tires @ a time, thats all you end up doing ever so often. I choose to replace "all" key components and the crankset as needed.
suitable rear clusters and chains are chump change in my book, but really make for good resale, not to mention plain durability in its own right.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
ok soo i take it you are a bit low budget so let me help..this is my wheel house..whin you spin the freewheel does it click spin nicely ..it probably does, if you hear a sandy noise.wgile spinning the freewheel ..you can spray it with pb blaster and try oiling it again ...oil and spun till it sounds good..the 3pc is an "american sealed bottom bracket..stick your thumb in the hole of the crank berring and put pressure as you spin the berring, if you dont feel any binds or sandy type grinding you arr all good..if it binds at all, or sounds crappy take a flat head and a hammer pop the berring cup and all out. you can pop the seal off of the berring with a small flat head by carefully prying it up..to expose the berrings. douch the berrings out with wd 40 tiill all the grease is gone..blow em out let em dry repack em with grease, pop the seal back on..if the berrings are better use em if not buy a "american sealed bottom bracket" for 19mm spindle. its like maybe 30 on ebay..check the wheel nerrings, remove the axles and regrease the berrings and re install the axles..
get a new chain..get one at bennys for like 4 bucks..1 to 3 speed chain..a chain is just a chain dont go spend 30bucks on a chain, get a link removal tool..or if you are handy..when you install the crank, loosen the rear wheel..thread the chair over the rear cog and over the front chainwheel, till the links look like they would meet if you pulled a link out and replaced it with a master, remove said link, using a removal tool or a grinder grind the link pin down till its flush with the face of the link, and just pop it off with a flat head and a hamner and install new link..your headset is a 1 1/8 headset threadless..before you remove it just wpin the front end around and listen for any crap noises..likr dirt in the berrings..pull the front end off take berrings out clean out and regrease, check racers for wear, if they look good pot the berrings back in the way they came out..there is a right way and a wrong way to install these particular berrings..but if you want to replace thrm buy an, a headset headset it eill come with cups and berrings..just install em.
brake lines they sell a kit in walmart, like 6 bucks comes with front and back, some have gear cables..now the 990 brakes are easy to set up if you know how to tension them, use a wrench and i think its either a 5 or 6mm alan key, you will see a little plastic cap on the top of both brake arms, takeyour alan key and losten the alan key ..the arm will probably lose tension and park itself up on the rim..once losened take your wrench and turn the plastic cap on one arm until the arm pulls itself away from the wheel hold the wrenches position and lock down the alan bolt, repeat process for next side, if you need new pads get ones made for"990 brakes"..to clean the frame try superfine steel wool and chrome polish, works wonders..if you wanna order a new crank, which i doubt you need. any 3pc with an american bb kit will do..if the chain ring aint bent use it if it is get a new one its probably a 44t .hope this info helps,
oh and your freewheel is a 16t 4prong..meaning it takes a 4prong freewheel removal tool..usually any free wheel tool that fits odyssey freewheels will fit that..if you wanted to replace it..and you can pick up the superfine steel whool and chrome polish at walmart.
oh if you manage to pop the crank berrings out ..which is easy just use a flat head and a hammer position the flat head through the berring hole to the opposite. betting and try to hit it on the furthest part of the cup on the inside..and to put a new one or the old ones back in just position the cup of the berring in the crank hole get a block of wood that fits over the entire size of the berring cup and all and hit the wood evenly till the berring pops into the crank hole..no special tool needed
Do you have any idea how much of a pain it is for a person needing assistance to wade through posts with multiple typos, misspellings, and no punctuation?
yea, i apologise for that..it is a bit of a horror show to read, didnt realize how bad it was till it posted..oops..but most of what i said made sense, right?
Don't knock old parts because they're old; much of the older stuff is better than what is available today. You do have to know how to tell the difference. For example, my primary commuting bicycle is a SR Sierra sport from 1982 - I purchased the frame and fork off eBay. The hubs are Suzue cartridge bearing from the mid 1980's. The rims are current Sun CR18, spokes Wheelsmith SS14, Sunlite BB, Shimano A050 crankset, MKS Lambda pedals, Avid V-brakes, Tektro levers, Shimano derailleurs, SRAM MRX gripshift for the rear and a Shimano lever for the front.
Another example, in my opinion, and many other people's also, the best Trek 900 series "mountain bikes" were the 1993 models and earlier. 1993 and earlier were lugged and brazed, 1994 and latter were TIG welded.
Nigel
I think the newest bike in my stable is a 97' thru 1989.I would not trade them for anything newer.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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