What do i need for my headset?

[IHateBearings]

[attachment=4796]I just got this bike and it needs work, the headset moves alot, i thought it was the bearings, it still might be, i cant see any, unless they are sealed? if they are sealed it seems everythings fine, though the gap from the forks to the stem is small so it wont lock all into place, making it move, i added a spacer but now the bolt will not reach the fork thread, the bolt is also slighty bent making it harder to tighten and work out whats up with it, do i need bearings? a new bolt? something completely different? im not very good with bearings at all so i need help please, ill upload lots of pictures, any help would be amazing, thanks

[RiceBurner]

Looks like the bearings are missing to me. Are you tightening cap screw prior to the two stem bolts?

[Painkiller]

I would recommend a total new replacement, the parts look worn. the race on the fork tube pic looks like one used for standard caged bearings and the top shot for the head tube looks like a zero-stack/integrated cartridge type. I cannot make out the brand/logos of your pics. By the shape of your headtube I would say you need an zero-stack integrated headset. these different headset style and name are often misused. it looks like someone has tried to mix them. this cannot be done. here is a link to some styles for you read and understand. if you cannot pinpoint what you need, take the frame and fork to the local bike shop and see if they can help you.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/headset-standards

[IHateBearings]

(01-03-2014, 11:49 PM)painkiller Wrote:  I would recommend a total new replacement, the parts look worn. the race on the fork tube pic looks like one used for standard caged bearings and the top shot for the head tube looks like a zero-stack/integrated cartridge type. I cannot make out the brand/logos of your pics. By the shape of your headtube I would say you need an zero-stack integrated headset. these different headset style and name are often misused. it looks like someone has tried to mix them. this cannot be done. here is a link to some styles for you read and understand. if you cannot pinpoint what you need, take the frame and fork to the local bike shop and see if they can help you.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/headset-standards

i think you may be right, as i found some old bearings and they will sit on that race on the fork tube like its meant to be there, are they sealed bearings then? might have to go to a bike shop, dont want to spend alot of money though :/

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(01-03-2014, 09:09 PM)RiceBurner Wrote:  Looks like the bearings are missing to me. Are you tightening cap screw prior to the two stem bolts?

i thought that but been told they are sealed? not sure though :/ the top screw wont even tighten properly as its bent, i thought that might be the problem

[Painkiller]

here are some shots of what my specialized enduro pro fsr has. It utilizes a double crown triple clamp fork. notice your top cap and bent bolt, notice top shot of mine, my cap (not pictured) threads in the fork tube. There is no reason on earth that your cap bolt should bend, it is a low torque item used merely to snug the bearings and seat the fork. then when your stem is attached it holds it all at the preload set. now notice the shap of your headtube and how it flares much more than mine, that tells me that your bearings (sealed or not) depends on the brand. are down it your headtube, as you can see the black cups on mine(top and bottom) of my headtube, pressed in and external. see my headtube does not flare out like yours. In any case you should probably also have some sort of beveled split ring like the gold one pictured as this is what snugs it up tight to your fork to keep it from rocking and knocking. with the bent bolt and the improper set up of your whole mess, just replace it. It would be best for you to take it to the shop to get the correct style and you could install it fairly easy.
$30 to $80 range depending on brand. One other note for is, in order for you to snug it all up your fork tube needs to be about 2 to 4mm below your stem so your top cap can snug and preload properly. If it hits the forktube before preload is attained it will not seat right. that is when you use the shims to obtain that gap