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Rear derailleur hits spokes
#1
I recently fitted a new shimano rear wheel (10sp compatible) however now when I change up to the largest gear the inside edge of the derailleur (10sp ultegra) contacts the outer wheel spokes. It is only slight interference but very noticeable. How can I remedy this? I have tried adjusting the A & B screws and the cable
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#2
Have you tried readjusting the cable tension to the derailleur?
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#3
yes thanks with no success
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#4
do you still have the old wheel? perhaps the dish is off. is it centered in the dropouts?
Get on your bad pedalscooter and ride!
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#5
Thanks X-Ray
yes I still have the old wheel and cluster (I changed both) It's OK if I put the old set up back on but the clearance is VERY small, and yes it is centered.
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#6
The most important fix for this is the inner limit screw on the derailleur. It is there specifically to make sure that the der can't go too far and hit the spokes. If you screw that in enough that you don't get interference, but then you can't shift to the largest cog, something is installed wrong or set up wrong.

But don't ride the bike until you have adjusted this. Or at least be VERY careful to stay out of that gear. If a spoke grabs the derailleur it can destroy the der, wheel, even frame. As your riding things can flex so that even if it just tings the spokes, under load it might move over farther and grab the der.
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#7
I'm pretty sure you need to align the derailleur hanger - maybe you bent it while putting the wheel on. I'm not sure the cable tension will have any effect. See Alex's video at : http://bikeride.com/derailleur-hanger-alignment/

Be careful here. That hanger is pretty soft and might break.

I bent my hanger once on a ride when I stopped to enter a crosswalk, couldn't pull my foot out, and fell over on the right side. Luckily a LBS was close and realigned my hanger for free.

Good luck, check back in with an update.
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#8
(03-20-2011, 11:36 PM)DaveM Wrote:  The most important fix for this is the inner limit screw on the derailleur. It is there specifically to make sure that the der can't go too far and hit the spokes. If you screw that in enough that you don't get interference, but then you can't shift to the largest cog, something is installed wrong or set up wrong.

But don't ride the bike until you have adjusted this. Or at least be VERY careful to stay out of that gear. If a spoke grabs the derailleur it can destroy the der, wheel, even frame. As your riding things can flex so that even if it just tings the spokes, under load it might move over farther and grab the der.

I adjust the screw and then I can't get the chain on the biggest gear. The der may be out of alignment
(03-21-2011, 01:20 AM)AndrewB Wrote:  I'm pretty sure you need to align the derailleur hanger - maybe you bent it while putting the wheel on. I'm not sure the cable tension will have any effect. See Alex's video at : http://bikeride.com/derailleur-hanger-alignment/

Be careful here. That hanger is pretty soft and might break.

I bent my hanger once on a ride when I stopped to enter a crosswalk, couldn't pull my foot out, and fell over on the right side. Luckily a LBS was close and realigned my hanger for free.

Good luck, check back in with an update.

I put the old wheel back on and there's no interference. I wonder if the wheel isn't suitable for 10 speed even though the vendor says it is
I put the old wheel back on and there's no interference. I wonder if the wheel isn't suitable for 10 speed even though the vendor says it is
[/quote]
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#9
Or could it be that the gear cluster is too close to the spokes?
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#10
It sounds like the new wheel puts the inner edge of the cassette closer in on the hub than your old wheel. You can measure the inner cog to spoke distance to confirm this is the difference. As to how to cure it, I'm not so sure. Maybe you could get a small spacer behind the cassette on the new wheel? But you can't go too far or the lockring won't bite. Might want to talk to the shop of wheel maker.
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#11
What have you changed between the old wheel and the new?
are the flange dias. the same?
is the flange width the same?
is the spoking pattern the same?
is the OLD the same?
have you increased the tooth count on low gear?
did, by any chance, your old cassette have a spacer behind it?
is the width of the cassette the same?
also read this;
http://www.jakesbikes.co.uk/content/348.php
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