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Bottom bracket issues
Hey all,
Need opinions on what I am about to suggest. There is a tool that has two arms on it with hooks on each arm. In the middle there is a bolt with a wobbly washer type end on it. I was thinking maybe MTB could use this for more leverage. Ahhh found it here it is http://www.amazon.com/SH-Flywheel-Puller/dp/B001AETI9E . If he had the right size pulling from the outside and outside would yank those suckers off!
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
Um...Theoretically, I guess that's one way. He would need to put something flat inside the crank so the puller has something to put pressure against, since the bottom bracket has a hole in the end. Maybe a dime work or penny would work.

That's what I use with my crank puller when I'm working on an ISIS Drive crank/BB.
Dedicated scholar of bicycles
(01-24-2010, 09:32 AM)jr14 Wrote:  Well, apart from the bloody presenter and coarse language, a video about removing stuck parts, ie. stem, seatpost, frozen threads, etc., isn't a bad idea.

What do you think Alex?

Great idea... I've added it to the list!
Just to keep you all informed – I still no longer have the bottom bracket issue. Moreover, I’ve really done now to repair it. I imagine, therefore, it was drive train related. Now all I have is a very dirty bicycle and a rear centering V brake issue…

Jr14, I like the idea of the presenter covered in blood (not aimed at Alex!), as this (and often does) happened to me trying to centre to rear brakes last night!

Oh well this weekend is a strip down and re-build opportunity – just got to get to work tomorrow (with a slightly catching rear LHS block)!

In reference to your rear brake, this is what I posted to another thread. I hope it helps.

"If one arm is sticking, and not releasing back, check the return spring and make sure the top of it is tucked back behind the little tab at the top of the arm. Sometimes it can pop off, and end up in front of the tab, resulting in no return action. Check the properly working arm and make sure the return spring looks like its in the same position. This happened to me once.

Second, if the return spring looks good, disassemble that arm, taking note in which hole the return spring is slotted into (Actually, I don't think ANY modern v-brakes use the 3 hole system anymore, they just have a set screw on each arm to adjust tension on the return spring for centering, this is what all Avid's have at least.) and clean the insides. Clean the spring, the post, everything, and make sure everything has a nice thin layer of grease on it, and reassemble.

This SHOULD alleviate your symptoms."
Dedicated scholar of bicycles
Hey jr14, I’ll check it out this weekend. I have already checked the return spring: my bike is ten years old (a 1999 Caldera), so it does have the three hole option. Unfortunately, I checked last night it’s in the third (tightest) hole configuration…

I think only a proper strip down and re-build will do but I’m on for it! I’ll let you know… Smile
Ooops, should have posted that to your other thread - sorry... Will do when I find it! Smile
I ended up buying a replacement V brake for the rear: I had this other issue that the cable grip (Allen) bolt was rounded. Wanted an Avid but all James’ (LBS, or at least one of them Smile), had was a Shimano. They always seem to sell stuff cheaper than RRP, so it wasn’t bad at twenty quid: ’09 model too. Still, looks like reasonable kit…

I know this is off post, but jr14 I can’t find the post you mentioned on this site. Did you maybe post it elsewhere? I apologize for the off posting but this is only informational stuff – please don’t ‘do’ me!

A friend and I had a problem fitting it (after much alcohol Smile), and the whole bike needs re-cabling so I’m on the bus and tram (the tram which I like very much!) for now till I can sort it this weekend (it's far too cold to work on bikes in the evening here)…

Marc Dominic.
This is a bog standard bb, my lbs replaces them for £30 including parts, usually in a day or two, not worth all the hassle and buying tools to do it your self.
I see WD-40 keeps being recommended. I have used it successfully many times. However there are far superior mixes.
I just did my wheels and BB for the first time in much longer then I care to confess. All Went smoothly. The crank pulling needed more force than I expected. I pre lube all items the night before I work on them. A sharp tap while adding penetrant and again latter helps.
It all started with a ticking noise , that turned out to be my pedals hitting a pump that rotated a bit. DUH. :-)) I hang the bike from rafters to work on it . I am glad I did the work. Now got tools on order to do the head.
It would be nice since we are world wide if members mentioned their location in personal FAQ.

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Type of penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ................................ 516 pounds

WD-40 ............................ 238 pounds

PB Blaster .......................214 pounds

Liquid Wrench .............. 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds (Automatic Transmission Fluid)

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
Never Give Up!!!
Now THAT'S interesting...
Dedicated scholar of bicycles
That's what I am thinking too. Very nice to know and will definitely try it. A little secret to everyone, if you use hot tap water before your mixture of whatever measurement of water and whatever degreaser things will loosen up a little quicker too!
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
Ye I got this on my BMW motorcycle Airheads list. Will mix some acetone and ATF got to steal my wifes nail polish remover. :-)

BTW a hair dryer is a good source of heat too, or a soldering iron.

Hair dryer is great for taking off stickers that are not under clearcoat. Using shoemakers thread, fishing line or strong dental floss.
Never Give Up!!!
(06-23-2009, 08:47 PM)DaveM Wrote:  Shimano BB's are fine. The quality varies with price of course, but they typically last years.
You might try slipping the chain off the inner chain ring so you can rotate the cranks without anything touching them. If that feels very smooth with no side to side play, it would indicate (but not prove) that the BB is fine.
My first guess would be loose crank arm or pedal. Sometimes re-installing the pedals with a little grease on the threads will cure this. But as stated above, these noises can be tricky to track down. good luck

Thanks for this one. I was about to replace my BB again after only a few months as there was that same clicking noise again. Was tempted to just strip the bike down for parts rather than spend more money on it. Then after seeing this I went back out, fitted a spare set of pedals (with a little grease on the threads) and..... Silence! Thanks again, time, money and nerves saved.
Hi trevgbb,

I noticed you posted a while ago: I'm a bit busy but in response (and I see you're from the UK, ref an earlier posting saying we ought keep in contact generally - not you and I but I can't find that now! - must be on a different thread)...

I'm afraid my lbs will require me to book it in to do the work and in the Summer they have a two month lead time! I'd rather buy the tools and do it myself... However, not required at the moment Smile.

Alex: where's the blood and guts video? Hmm, hmm?

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