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Sturmey Archer 3 speed Hub PDF
#1
Found this on the net and thought it may be useful for those of you with 3 speed sturmey archer hubs on their bikes.

PDF

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/catfoodrob/choppers/mechanic/aw-e.pdf

Spec Sheets

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/catfoodrob/choppers/bigpics/index.html

I know Bill is into his so he will certainly enjoy.
Cannondale, handmade in USA............................................Refined in Surrey, England.
- Cannondale F500, Kona Blast, Kona Caldera and now a Scott Strike, G Zero Team Issue Carbon-
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#2
Nice find for sure yes Bill will like this for sure.
My dad always told me a Sledge a matic can fix any thing.
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#3
Thanks for posting this, I just found a 1979 Schwinn Collegiate 3 and was looking for info before I begin reconditioning the bike.
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#4
Hey guys, bout a month back i bought a 1971 schwinn racer because i got hit and run on my old 1980 huffy chesapeake. I thought it was not repairable cuz the bike shop in town doesn't know much of old internal hubs. So here i get this beautiful bike,my green dream machine! I had one hesitation in buying the bike and that was the shift trigger,if it ever were to break how much it would blow, since the trigger on my huffy had broken leaving me in third gear. Well guess what ,last night at a bar some drunk bastard fucked with my parked bike and broke my gear shift and im stuck in third once again....... I just finished taking it off,im not entirely sure where the problem is,seems all pretty well intact,the trigger is having issues possibly spring related and a metal piece that screws in somewhere is loose and sliding up and down the cable,along with a plastic bit. Im curious if anyone can explain or show diagram of how to resolve this,i have never swapped cables like this and im not sure i need too,not sure how to get the cable properly back in the trigger. I'm also curious if there is a manual way for me to put my bike in second gear with out the shifter.
yeeeeeee-HAW!
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#5
much info here;
http://www.sturmey-archer.com
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#6
If needed, you can lock the bike in 2nd gear with a hose clamp. Wrap the clamp around the cable and chain stay back by the rear wheel. Pull the cable with your hand to the 2nd gear position and then tighten down the hose clamp to hold it.

In your picture, I think the lower section of cable goes into the shifter and the little threaded part screws into the side of the shifter to give you a little bit of cable adjustment. The barrel shaped end piece catches inside the shifter. Sometimes you have to feed the whole cable through until the end piece catches in the shifter, sometimes you can just drop it in place.

Might help if you look at the hub and try to find all the brand and model markings. If it's sturmey archer, there should be parts and plenty of info available online. But helps to know exactly what you've got.

http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/cable.html
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#7
I didn't have time for detail yesterday;
go here for full info on fitting standard 3 speed cable

http://www.sturmey-archer.com/userfiles/catalogs/SA-Shifter-Catalogue-1999-English.pdf

you also seem to be missing the cable anchorage, item 4, which screws onto the end of the indicator.
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#8
Can anyone tell me if rear rim on schwinn stingray chopper 3 speeds are 1 full piece..because i have 2 bikes and each rear rim has a rivoted piece connecting rim together..is this the way the rims are.? It looks like the rim is cut all the way across . Do all the rear rims have the rivoted connector piece on them?
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#9
(10-06-2014, 02:05 AM)rightwingscorer Wrote:  Can anyone tell me if rear rim on schwinn stingray chopper 3 speeds are 1 full piece

Virtually all metal rims are made from one straight piece of material that is bent into a circle and then joined. Some rims will have just a insert at the joint to hold them together. Other will be welded and carefully sanded to remove any visible seam. The presence of a seam does not always mean that the rim is lower quality, though the better rims usually have very minimal, smooth seam if there is one.

It is really the tension on the spokes that hold a rim together. The way the rim is joined isn't that critical. More important to the strength of a rim is the cross-section. If it is "single walled" (basically meaning one piece of metal) it won't be all that string. "Box sectioned" rims that are shaped like a box are much stronger. Quality of material also makes a big difference.

I assume an old stingray has steel rims. Not "high-end", but they did the job.
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