1 hour ago
I recently bought a tensiometer from AliExpress to finally learn myself on using one to build bike wheels. I have been building them blind before using this, and wanted to get that experience first because I felt it was important for self-sufficiency. I've built some incredible wheels without using a tensiometer, but there's no doubt to me that including the tensiometer helps to keep the wheel in better proportions, and takes the guess work involved when sniping subtly loose spokes.
Something I want to add is that this tensiometer doesn't seem to have the same spec as the Park Tool compliment. When you give the tool a closer inspection, you will notice that the spring mechanism is much shorter than the Park Tool. Meaning, there's less leverage, and it will require more tension on the spoke to give an equal reading. Because of this, the ball-point marker also wants to be positioned directly under the gauge to the left. Mine was loose when I got it and could wobble back and forth (up and down and around). I had to use some steady handwork to tighten it down in place correctly, after observing the other qualities of the tool, and comparing the reading on a built wheel to what the equivalent should about be. Oddly, their chart lists about the same spec per meter reading and newtons/lbs of force. I find that this meter reads about 5 units higher from the standard tensiometer. Meaning, your 80~100 high strength wheel will be around the 25 mark for the drive side, and naturally, the non-drive side wants to read about 2 or 3 units less.
For the price, I think the tool works fine if you have the experience in wheel building as I do. It tells you where you're at in the ballpark, and that provides a well-enough guide. Even if it does have some cheap qualities and caveats, such as the tension reading being modifiable by forced depression onto the lever, a little finesse is all someone needs to make good use of this very economic-friendly tool.
Something I want to add is that this tensiometer doesn't seem to have the same spec as the Park Tool compliment. When you give the tool a closer inspection, you will notice that the spring mechanism is much shorter than the Park Tool. Meaning, there's less leverage, and it will require more tension on the spoke to give an equal reading. Because of this, the ball-point marker also wants to be positioned directly under the gauge to the left. Mine was loose when I got it and could wobble back and forth (up and down and around). I had to use some steady handwork to tighten it down in place correctly, after observing the other qualities of the tool, and comparing the reading on a built wheel to what the equivalent should about be. Oddly, their chart lists about the same spec per meter reading and newtons/lbs of force. I find that this meter reads about 5 units higher from the standard tensiometer. Meaning, your 80~100 high strength wheel will be around the 25 mark for the drive side, and naturally, the non-drive side wants to read about 2 or 3 units less.
For the price, I think the tool works fine if you have the experience in wheel building as I do. It tells you where you're at in the ballpark, and that provides a well-enough guide. Even if it does have some cheap qualities and caveats, such as the tension reading being modifiable by forced depression onto the lever, a little finesse is all someone needs to make good use of this very economic-friendly tool.
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