New Fork Instalation Dillema

[J. Hanley]

O.K., I think I may have worked this out, see if this sounds right.
I just checked by holding the new fork with the tube on it up against the bike, and it looks like maybe I was mistaken yesterday and the threaded portion of the tube doesn't go low enough, and that's why it was loose.
But then I thought of something that hadn't occured to me yesterday, which is that the weight of the bike and rider don't push down on the steerer, but rests on the fork crown, so there doesn't seem to be any reason not to cut the tube to length from the bottom, unthreaded part of the tube, and then make a shim for the crown race.
See, the way these forks work is that you slide the tube up into the fork from the bottom of the crown, then tighten allen bolts to hold it securely. You really have to pound the heck out of the bottom of the tube to get it in there all the way because the base of the tube is wider and knurled, so I thought it might not be safe not to push it all the way in, but like I said, the weight of the bike doesn't push down on the steerer, so it seems like it should be O.K.
Next year, when I'm ready to paint, maybe I'll think about replacing the headset with a new, threadless kind. All I'll have to do then is get a threadless steerer tube, and I can use the same fork.
Any comments? Anybody have any recomendations on adhesives for a crown race shim? I was thinking of J B Weld.