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Peugeot 1972-74 Deraileurs FR & Rear
#1
Need some advice if possible.
Removed broken Simplex red label derailleurs front & rear. Rear any 10 spped will work as I read online probably better than the Simplex Prestige that was original.Schwinn Caliente 10 speed donor bike removed the Shimano Tourney Rear Derailleur and Installed it.
The front is a bottom pull so limited somewhat to compatibility. Found that a Suntour Spirt (not spirit) will work as it is a bottom pull. I know I could jump up in the Huret All metal French derailurs but Suntour parts are readily available and much cheaper. Clamp on same style.

I hope this would work I know or read something in tube sizing disparity between Japan frame vs a French frame. If necessary will have to make a copper shim or similar to take up the slack. I believe the French tubing is smaller than Japan tubing 28 mm vs 28.6 or 28.8 tubing size.
For a bike that will be used daily prefer a good shifting mechanism.
Very hilly here in CT so probably 1-5 low will get the majority of the work load. Occasional down hill run I may push all gears into action make sure they work well. Any help appreciate or if potential problems I face but not discussed or posted please send a note as maybe I am wrong on some of this. Prefer mechanics are right vs originality of components.

Regards

Teisco_KId
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#2
Almost all front dérailleurs are bottom pull... (yeah, the recent MTB stuff is not, meh, who cares, you are staying more in the era, so there's no top pull). Rear dérailleur is more tricky since you need one with an attached tab as the frame has no hanger (you found one though, so no worries).
Nice bike btw. but seems to be way too tall for you! Also, when's the last time you replaced the brake pads?
  Reply
#3
[quote='Joe_W' pid='29753' dateline='1383144492']
Almost all front dérailleurs are bottom pull... (yeah, the recent MTB stuff is not, meh, who cares, you are staying more in the era, so there's no top pull). Rear dérailleur is more tricky since you need one with an attached tab as the frame has no hanger (you found one though, so no worries).
Nice bike btw. but seems to be way too tall for you! Also, when's the last time you replaced the brake pads?
[/quote]
[quote='Teisco_Kid' pid='29754' dateline='1383145185']
[quote='Joe_W' pid='29753' dateline='1383144492']
Almost all front dérailleurs are bottom pull... (yeah, the recent MTB stuff is not, meh, who cares, you are staying more in the era, so there's no top pull). Rear dérailleur is more tricky since you need one with an attached tab as the frame has no hanger (you found one though, so no worries).
Nice bike btw. but seems to be way too tall for you! Also, when's the last time you replaced the brake pads?

Hi Joe,
I just received the bike. I thought some 70-80s front derailleurs were top pull and had to find a bottom. I recall my Fuji & Schwinn both 1980s bikes were bottom pull.
I read the Suntour Spirt was the best economy choice for a front derailleur.
I like these rims they have dent marks for grabbing the pad I think. But alloys are better in wet weather I was informed. It will be an around the block type bike. I am 5'11" so seat has to come up. But this bike appears sturdy for my 220 LBS frame LOL !Yes the rear derailur Shimano Tourney went right on with hanger. Got it off a parts bike
All in all should be an ok ride for steel bike lighter than the Schwinn line-up of the same era. Varsity Continental ect.

Thanks again !

Teisco_KId
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#4
(10-30-2013, 10:48 AM)Joe_W Wrote:  Almost all front dérailleurs are bottom pull... (yeah, the recent MTB stuff is not, meh, who cares, you are staying more in the era, so there's no top pull). Rear dérailleur is more tricky since you need one with an attached tab as the frame has no hanger (you found one though, so no worries).
Nice bike btw. but seems to be way too tall for you! Also, when's the last time you replaced the brake pads?

Hi Joe
Found out Suntour Spirt NOS are 1.0 inch diameter. My Peugeot tubing is 1"1/16". Rubber tire tube remedy so it does not slip ? Also seems these Suntour shifts in reverse from small to large main Granddad on pulling the shifter. Wondering if I am going to run into trouble here not sure how the Peugeot is supposed to shift large to small small to large or if one can reverse something. I know Simplex Front Derailleur has a push-rod I peeked under the red cap.
I saw some shims available on eBay to take up the slack. Why I stayed with a early 80s similar derailleur avoid problems.
Any advice appreciated.

Thank You Teisco_KId
  Reply
#5
If the tubing (aka "clamp diameter") is really 1 1/16", I think you should get a 28.6mm clamp and shim it. Just cut a piece of soda can for a shim. It is good quality shim material and this isn't some high stress area that needs precision anyway. (Though don't use a rubber shim like you mention.)

Pretty much any basic low end bottom pull derailleur will work. Technically you should get a road der. not a mountain/triple compatible one, but a mtn one will work fine anyway. Most of the road ones nowadays are made for very narrow chains so you might have to adjust more often to avoid rubbing. Something really basic like this will work (http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-ATB-Front-Derailleur-28-6/dp/B0040DSQN6/ )

I'm pretty sure you have normal pull on your shifters. The standard way is that as you pull the shifter & cable, the derailleur moves to the larger chainrings (front and back). It also doesn't matter that the old derailleur has that push rod style. A normal modern style movement will work fine.

Don't over think it too much. Pretty much any front der will work on this bike if you can clamp it on and the shifting isn't going to be any different anyway. Save money on that and spend it on new tires, brake pads, a seat, and some pedals. Those will have a way bigger impact on how the bike rides.
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