Hello from NW Ohio

[Capt.bob]

New to bikes other than my Harleys! I am picking up my first bike with pedals in over 50 years tomorrow. I purchased a used Wallke H9 AWD with 130 miles on it, and intend to use it for one purpose,,, FISHING! I have thought long and I am thinking for getting my one and my 2 man Ice shanties on the hard water so at 72 years old with both knees replaced, and 7 fusions in my spine from a 22 foot fall in 1991, as well as 3 crushed discs that are pinned and plated, I need help to fish like I used to.

I intend to install two studded tires on it, and am only interested in being able to run 5 to 10 mph on the ice with a 60 lbs flip over Ice shanty in tow, and my gear, maybe 70lbs total. Hopefully also my 2 man and gear closer to 125 lbs total gear and flip over shanty. Both have teflon runner kits installed and max trip one way would seldom be more than a mile or 2 all on hard water, and usually less than 1/4 mile. I will use the luggage rack on back for my Buddy heater power pack for the shanty fans lights and music, as well as tackle. everything else will ride in the sleds.

So since I have never seen it done, and can get no advice other than it won't work,,, here I am with open ears, and stubborn enough to know there is always a way. I'm looking for some to help me make that easier to figure out and as efficient as I can make it!

So hello bikers, now I'm going out and going to lunch on my HD ultra classic, and it I do ride over 15 mph

[Jesper]

Welcome @Capt.bob

I rode through Ohio east-west via Athens-Chillicothe-Dayton as a youngster, but never through the northern part of the State. I did that ride in March so I am familiar with riding un very cold temperatures on ice and snow with 28mm tires.

Regarding using an ebike as a tractor? No problem! Using your particular bike I cannot say without seeing specs. for the model.
The following issues need to be considered:
It needs to have enough torque (either motor alone or with rider assist); and I assume AWD implies dual motor design so with proper traction you should be good to go.
The gross cargo load (rider and equip.) might be an issue if way above the rated max. weight load; not on the frame necessarily, but on the motor/electrical system and possibly the wheels (hub or spoke damage). The electrical & mechanical components need to be heavy duty enough for the expected usage. Unless you weigh over 250 lbs I think you will be fine even pulling the heavier hut power-wise (just need the tires). I do not know what the bike's load limit is, but I assume it can handle ~400 gross cargo (a bike with about 1KW motor)
Tire type: Are you ONLY going to be on bare ice with the bike? Are the lakes completely clear without any considerable snow patches to cross? Will there be any trail or road (paved and unpaved) use?
I recommend before you just buy tires that you consult with a shop in your area that REGULARLY deals with studded tires and has a variety for you to compare both off and on the bike. They are not going to be cheap!! I assume ~$100/tire at the low end. No idea if your bike has a tubeless set-up wheel, but the inner tubes are not cheap either if required (if you have inner tubes buy a spare one, & keep it, a pump, tire levers and wrench for changing a flat). Depending on tire design, some will be better on ice than snow and vice versa, ad well as mixed use. Tread, width, stud length/count, pressure, etc. will make the bike handle differently given the traction you want so it would be nice if a shop allowed you to test different set-ups (even using mixed types front & rear) with the heavier hut in tow, the bike normally loaded, and add some more weight just in case you need to pull more load (fish caught, drunken fishermen, etc.). Personally, I would try towing both huts at the same time if you were not already going to do so in the first place. That would be a great test, but I would be careful and start out with just the one hut first and determine how well it does. You do not want to burnt out an electrical component on a whim.

My only other advice is to be prepared to change out the saddle. Even if it is comfortable now, it might not be when 0°F depending on the design/padding. If you are not going to be on it for very long periods of time it might not be a concern. You will know soon enough.