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Unknown '80s Raleigh
#1
Picking up an old Raleigh for a "rustoration" (clean, stabilize rust, clear coat, no parts polishing, tires/tubes,ride) from a local friend who restores "Whizzer" powered bikes. A perfect city bike that I doubt someone will want to steal when when parked next to all the shiny bikes. It seems to be an okay frame (I figure it's about a 28 pounder as built) with decent components. Certainly not my normal type of bike or build given my penchant for lightweight classic European racers, but getting for essentially nothing so no loss. Photos were forwarded to me since I have yet to pick it up. My friend is building a pennyfarthing and needed a longer cottered crank set than what he has now so bike is being traded for cranks I'm not using. I am not at all familiar with Raleigh (of America) bikes of that period. I think Huffy owned the Raleigh name in the US during that period with the bikes being produced in Japan. I have no idea what "Raleigh 502" (not REYNOLDS, never made "502", Reynolds "501" is seamed and butted ) tubing is (Ishiwata, TANGE, butted/straight gauge, seamless/seamed, etc. ?). The frame has "RALEIGH" badged stay caps and cranks, Raleigh logo fork crown, and Raleigh logo handlebar with US flag stamping; all nice little features for what I assume was a fairly inexpensive bike for the time. Sun Tour "V GT" (LUXE?) long cage rear derailleur, Sun Tour Front derailleur, and stem mount "Power Shift" levers; alloy rims. I'm assuming it's a entry level touring frame given the rear cluster gearing (large rear cog looks about 32-34T, front pair maybe 52/40T).

Anyone got any ideas as to the model and/year.

   
   
   
   
   
   
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
  Reply
#2
(04-23-2021, 01:49 PM)Jesper Wrote:  Picking up an old Raleigh for a "rustoration" (clean, stabilize rust, clear coat, no parts polishing, tires/tubes,ride) from a local friend who restores "Whizzer" powered bikes. A perfect city bike that I doubt someone will want to steal when when parked next to all the shiny bikes. It seems to be an okay frame (I figure it's about a 28 pounder as built) with decent components. Certainly not my normal type of bike or build given my penchant for lightweight classic European racers, but getting for essentially nothing so no loss. Photos were forwarded to me since I have yet to pick it up. My friend is building a pennyfarthing and needed a longer cottered crank set than what he has now so bike is being traded for cranks I'm not using. I am not at all familiar with Raleigh (of America) bikes of that period. I think Huffy owned the Raleigh name in the US during that period with the bikes being produced in Japan. I have no idea what "Raleigh 502" (not REYNOLDS, never made "502", Reynolds "501" is seamed and butted ) tubing is (Ishiwata, TANGE, butted/straight gauge, seamless/seamed, etc. ?). The frame has "RALEIGH" badged stay caps and cranks, Raleigh logo fork crown, and Raleigh logo handlebar with US flag stamping; all nice little features for what I assume was a fairly inexpensive bike for the time. Sun Tour "V GT" (LUXE?) long cage rear derailleur, Sun Tour Front derailleur, and stem mount "Power Shift" levers; alloy rims. I'm assuming it's a entry level touring frame given the rear cluster gearing (large rear cog looks about 32-34T, front pair maybe 52/40T).

Anyone got any ideas as to the model and/year.

I'm no expert but I think that's a 1984 Raleigh Marathon. If it's not 1984 then it seems very close to what I'm seeing. Could probably narrow a year down if you get the serial number on it.
   
   
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#3
Thanks @ThePhysicist

If that page is from an '84 catalog I would agree that it is probably the right year and model (hard to to see details in image), or maybe +/- one year depending on components fitted barring any changes occurring after the catalog was issued. I thought I had searched, but I couldn't find a "502" reference. I find it interesting that the "502" tubing reference specifically stated "...502 chrome moly seat tube...". No butting mentioned (whether single or double), and "tube" vice "tubing"; both of which are referenced for the top of line Olympian made with "...555T double-butted CroMo tubing...". It might mean that a "502" frame is using the same tubing as a "555" frame, but only for the seat tube (the rest high-tensile steel?), but with the "555" frame utilizing CroMo tubing for at least all of the 3 main tubes. Do you have a link to that image? I didn't get a direct hit upon searching. If that is from a catalog there may be a full spec page listing component makes and models, and a description of tubesets used. I would think that would help me since I saw a similar model Raleigh Marathon (catalog year?); but it listed different components than what my new project has fitted. I need to go back and check, but I believe it was an '85 catalog from Sheldon Brown's website.

That rebuild photo is nice. Good simple changes without replacing all components if those fitted are original. I would do mine similar in regards to original paint scheme (paint & decals look original), but it will get beat up if I use for it's intended purpose. I know the spoke guard will be removed and not be replaced. The saddle, seat post (if not alloy), pedals, bar tape, cables and housings will be replaced, and probably the BB also unless it's in great shape; headset, hubs and freewheel TBD. The cranks, rings, derailleurs, and brakes remain unless damaged/unsafe, or worn out. I may do a little "distressed" paint work (orange and green over flat black) on it to make it appear to have been stolen more than once; still leaving some exposed (clear-coated) rusty spots. If I polish all the components and detail paint in the pantographs/engravings/stampings it might look too nice even with a 'rattle can' spray paint job making it a cool steel bike to steal.
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
  Reply


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