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Need help with deciding on new wheelset
I currently have a 2009 Raleigh Mojave 3.0 with Weinmann CN 520 wheels. I am 6'5" and weigh 205 lbs. I prefer to only ride trails and my experience level is such that I only hit small jumps and small drop offs. This riding style has already resulted in the CN 520 being way too weak a wheel for me and I am looking to upgrade. I've only had the bike for three weeks and the bike shop has already replaced the rear wheel once due to it being out of true (radial). I've since only ridden the bike once (on pavement) and am already seeing lateral movement. Can anyone recommend a wheel set that would be better equipped for me. I know that the really good wheels cost a lot, but I would be hard pressed in convincing my wife to let me go over $300. Thanks in advance.
If wheels fail, they are not built well enough. Most likely, the spoke tension is too low. This is especially true, if the wheel becomes out of true when riding only on pavement. Either that or you hit too many kerb stones (AE: curb stones)...

In my opinion you have two choices: Go for a decent entry to mid-range set of wheels, either "system" wheelsets or a standard set built by somebody who actually knows what he is doing. The latter set should be something like mid-range hub, mid-range rim, 32 double butted spokes (e.g. DT competition), laced cross three.

If you don't want to spend the money, you could try to correct the spoke tension, but if you're new to that, a short warning is asked for: correcting other people's building mistakes is time consuming, frustrating and difficult.

I don't have a MTB, but I go cyclocrossing with an old Peugeot road bike with handbuilt wheels. Shimano Tiagra / Deore hubs, low level rims (don't even remember the brand), 32 spokes cross 3. Up to now they take quite a bit of abuse.
Thanks for the reply. In searching for a new wheel set, I have discovered that the great many choices come equipped for a cassette. I have a 14-28 freewheel on my rear wheel. Could I purchase one of these wheel sets and a cassette for my bike and would there be any benefit to going with the 14-32 as opposed to the 14-28 I currently have? And one last question, what does "Cassette body type: 9/10/SRAM" mean? I believe SRAM is a brand, but what do the numbers designate?
I believe those numbers mean it's for either a 9 or 10 speed cassette (9 or 10 sprockets).
It depends. OK, that's not the answer you wanted...

If you have a freewheel you have 7 speeds in the rear (at most). I believe that a 7 speed cassette should fit on a hub for 8/9 speeds, but you'll need a spacer to go on the freehub body. Shimano and SRAM are compatible, so you can pick either of those. The higher tooth count will help when climbing steep paths. If you don't even use your 28 teeth sprocket it makes no sense to go for 32 as the lowest gear. Change the chain while you're at it, a new biggest sprocket means you have to get a longer chain. You cannot use a cassette with a different number of sprockets than you currently have unless you want to change the shifters also.

You have a freewheel? On a 2009 bike? Who puts freewheels on new bikes? This is basically from the stone age of biking, 7spd freewheels were notorious for breakage, because of the axle length.
Sorry, but this had to be said. I still cannot believe that those things are still manufactured...
I can't guarantee it's a freewheel; I am new to this after all. I base this belief off of the fact that the inner portion of the wheel (hub?) remains static, while the rest of the wheel spins.

And I think, well, a bicycle shop in Austin, TX, thinks they have all my problems solved. For my size and riding style, they recommend a wheel made up of a Sun Rhinolyte 32 hole rim with Deore hub and DT 2.0 spokes. Of course I will have to also purchase a cassette to go with this wheel, but for $120 total, I feel I have gotten off lucky.

Thanks for the help.
Sounds like a good idea. $120 for a (hopefully decent) rear wheel is really ok. I'd go for double butted spokes though, since they make stronger wheels.

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